Monthly Meeting - 'A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step'
Tuesday 11 March
Our wee hall was busy with people coming into the warmth after a chilly but beautiful day – spring is certainly on the way! Anne Artis kicked off the meeting reminding everyone of the centenary craft display in Gargunnock at the end of the month and more examples of crafts will be welcome. Helen Little, our treasurer commented that we now have 39 members and subs have been sent to Head Office. The other events which are coming up including our Grahams Dairy visit, and the Spring federation meeting with competitions; a centenary cruise in Loch Lomond is coming up in June, which will be on us before we realise – this will be a lovely day out and memorable! Another special occasion is the invitation from Royal Company of Archers to join Charlie as his guests at the Royal Garden Party in July – a number of current and former committee members will attend. Anne then read out a lovely letter from Isobel who hopes to be back in the hall next month; and a thank you from Alasdair Beaton for the lovely evening he enjoyed as a speaker.
Anne then introduced Peter Ireland who is very knowledgeable on the Roman and Greek world and travels extensively and shared the tale of his cruise on the Hoogli River. After flying to Delhi and travelling to Kolkata in West Bengal they travelled on a luxury boat, staffed with local young people who are trained as engineers and cooks to staff the boat. A welcome drink was offered on arrival, along with garlands. The Cabins were clean and comfortable. As the boat travelled down the river locals gathered on the banks to wave at the tourists as often their homes were remote and inaccessible by road. Every day the boat moored and a trip was made ashore for example visiting the seat of the sultans of Bengal which had a 200,000 population in its heyday, and even now there are impressive ruins with traditional brickwork and glazed tiles. The buildings date to the 17C but the city was established in 13c. The experience was very tranquil without hordes of western tourists and only the occasional Indian tourists. It is possible to walk freely through the villages without seeing the beggars which most people associate with India. The idiosyncratic architecture was interesting and well preserved – but not on the side of the building exposed to the monsoon! The tour company support and fund local enterprises including schools where the tour guests are encouraged to speak to the pupils (who ranged from engaged to sulky!) One other tour group were observed playing cricket with their group!
The Hazarduari complex, with 1000 doors was build by Col.Duncan MacLeod, a Scottish Engineer which is now a rather dull museum with 100 real doors and 900 fake ones! More interesting was the snake charmer milking his snakes for venom! The buildings were interesting including those built on platforms to keep dry, and others with arches which are the ideal hiding place for wild bees. The last nawaab of Bengals tomb was recently reinstated and tells the story of the East India Company’s relationship with Siraj-ud-Daula who was incarcerated along with many of his army (facts vary from 64 to 120) in horrific conditions and only 23 survived to the next day and kicked off the chain of events that led to his murder in 1757 by Clive even with a lesser army after he bribed the Indian army not to fight, and had better cannons. This was the beginning of the raj and the domination of the East India company.
The boat was very hospitable, with restaurant standard food on deck and cookery demonstrations for the young people to show off their skills. Entertainment also included loud singing, with stamping and clapping from star performers who are more used to a theatre setting than a boat! A little of this goes a long way….!
As the tour progressed along the river the guests took the opportunity to walk through the countryside and look at the rare wildlife and villagers going about their every day lives. Cow dung is an important part of life which is dried and used for fire fuel – a privilege to see in such an unspoiled setting. In Matari village which is famed for its brass and bronze ware, for everyday use in the villagers kitchens, but there were some tourist souvenirs available separately, and mustard oil which is pressed locally in pretty unhygienic conditions. A market visit was a must – with the challenge of spending 10 rupees to buy the vegetables for the boat evening meal which was more difficult for some than others. The boat crew were very inventive and a videographer interviewed everyone for a promotional reel for the boat, but one of the young lady travellers mostly made the final cut!
On the Hoogli there was always some thing to see – from water buffalo washing to cars being transported. Back on the boat the food was delicious and always eagerly anticipated. Further temple visits ranged from slightly uncomfortable feeling of exploitation (of the monks) to 108 temples of Shiva with beautiful tranquil gardens which could enchant even the most cynical of travellers. From grand statuesque buildings to humble religious sites. And transport ranged from motorised to bicycle rickshaws which were an adventure in themselves, but better fun than the opportunity of a picnic in the Dutch Cemetery! As the journey drew to a close the tour took Peter to the French occupied region which, even to this day, retains a certain Gallic flair with amazing relics and architecture from the imperial period which show a huge divide between the ruling classes and the general population. Returning to Kolkata the group were very aware of the buzz of traffic and the chaotic busyness of the city. The traffic changing direction at different times of the day added to the ‘experience’ and resulted in it being quicker to walk than take the tram. Kolkata is a great walking city – equally vibrant and filthy but always interesting, with visits taking the history of the country up to the end of the Mogul empire before individual rulers took over. In 1906, the Victoria Memorial was built by public subscription – an outrageous extravagance which is visited in the majority by Indian tourists. Peter finished with a traditional Indian ‘bye-bye’ reflecting on a great trip and highly recommended to go back again!
Anne thanked Peter for sharing his experience with Ruskie and look forward to hearing about his future travels if he can face going back through an airport again!
After another splendid Ruskie supper, thanks to Carole Russell, Libby Macgregor and Sheena Gibson, and a very well supported raffle the winners of the competitions were announced and members headed out with a reminder from Anne to change our clocks before the next meeting.
Favourite Jute or Hessian Item: 1) Lottie McKie, 2) Anne Artis, 3) Liz Black
Acrostic Poem (NAVIGATE); 1) Alison Smellie, 2) Lesley Gentles, 3) Pamela Deans
